Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Tradition says a mosque stood on this hill soon after the Arab conquest of Samarkand in the early 8th century, at the gate of the old city on Afrasiyab. It was dedicated to Khizr (Khidr), a mysterious figure of Islamic tradition, a wise man who knows the secrets of life and water and protects travellers. Mosques and shrines to Khizr are often found at gates, crossings and springs.

The early building was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of 1220. The present mosque was built in 1854 and enlarged around the turn of the 20th century, when the portal and minaret were added. It was carefully restored in the 1990s, after independence, and remains an active place of prayer.

The mosque has a winter prayer hall and a deep summer porch (aivan) supported by slender carved wooden columns, a typical feature of 19th-century Central Asian mosques. Look up at the ceilings, painted in bright floral and geometric patterns, and at the carved and painted wooden brackets. The small domed hall and the portal facing the road are decorated with tile and brick patterns.

From the terrace in front of the mosque you get one of the best views in Samarkand: Bibi-Khanym and its domes rise just across the road, Siab Bazaar sprawls below and the mountains appear on clear days. It is especially beautiful in the morning or at sunset.

Islam Karimov, the first president of independent Uzbekistan, who came from Samarkand, was buried on the slope beside the mosque in 2016. A domed mausoleum in traditional style now stands over his grave, and the area around it has been landscaped. It is visited by many Uzbek families. Respect the solemnity of the site and follow the instructions of the guards on photography and access.

The mosque stands on the hill across the main road from Siab Bazaar and Bibi-Khanym; cross by the pedestrian underpass and walk up the steps. A small fee may be charged for visitors, and the mosque can be closed during prayer times, especially at Friday midday prayers. Women should cover their hair and everyone should cover shoulders and knees; scarves are sometimes available at the entrance.

Combine it with Bibi-Khanym, Siab Bazaar and Shah-i-Zinda, all within ten minutes on foot. From here you can also walk to the Afrasiyab museum, about 15–20 minutes away across the ancient site.

Hazrat Khizr stands at the edge of Afrasiyab, the vast hill of ruins that was Samarkand from about the 7th century BC until the Mongol destruction of 1220. Alexander the Great knew it as Maracanda; later it was the capital of Sogdiana, a civilisation of merchants who dominated Silk Road trade. After the Mongol conquest the city moved south, to where the Registan and the modern town are today.

From the mosque terrace you look out over this landscape of mounds and gullies. Paths lead across the site to the Afrasiyab museum, which displays the famous 7th-century wall paintings of a Sogdian king receiving ambassadors from China, Korea and other lands. Combining the mosque with the museum gives a sense of how many layers of history lie under Samarkand’s streets.

In the evening the view from the terrace towards Bibi-Khanym, with the domes lit against the sky, is one of the quietest and most rewarding moments of a visit to the city. Bring a light jacket in spring and autumn, as the hill catches the breeze.

Bibi-Khanym and its mausoleum are directly across the road, Siab Bazaar lies at the foot of the hill and Shah-i-Zinda is a five-to-ten-minute walk east along the road. The Afrasiyab museum and the remains of the ancient city are about 15–20 minutes on foot to the north, and Ulugbek’s observatory is a short taxi ride further. A morning that starts at the bazaar, climbs to Hazrat Khizr for the view and ends at Shah-i-Zinda is one of the most rewarding walks in Samarkand.