Islam Khoja Minaret and Madrasah, Khiva

Islam Khoja was the grand vizier and father-in-law of Isfandiyar Khan, who ruled Khiva in the early 20th century, when the khanate was a protectorate of the Russian Empire. He had travelled to Russia and Europe and returned determined to modernise his country. He founded a European-style school, a hospital, a post and telegraph office and a pharmacy, and he supported the construction of bridges and roads.

His reforms made him enemies among the conservative clergy and the nobility, and, according to the usual account, the khan himself grew jealous of his influence. In 1913 Islam Khoja was murdered on his way home from the palace. The killers were punished, but the khan was widely believed to have been involved. The minaret and madrasah remain his monument in the heart of the city.

The minaret, completed in 1910, is the last great minaret built in Khiva and the tallest. It is about 57 metres high, with a base around 9.5 metres in diameter, tapering steeply towards a lantern of arched windows under a small cap. Its surface is decorated with alternating bands of turquoise, blue and white glazed tiles and plain brick, which make it look even taller and more slender. Together with Kalta Minor, it defines the skyline of Khiva: one short and stout, the other tall and thin.

Because Khiva is surrounded by flat desert and oasis, the minaret is visible from far away, and it served as a landmark and watchtower.

A dark, narrow spiral staircase of about 118 steps winds up inside the minaret to the lantern. The steps are steep and uneven, and some are high; there is little light, so a phone torch is useful. People with heart problems, claustrophobia or reduced mobility should not attempt it. The climb takes about 10 minutes.

At the top, small windows look out in all directions: over the domes, courtyards and flat roofs of Ichan-Kala, the walls and gates, the Juma mosque minaret and Kalta Minor, and beyond them the green oasis and the edge of the Karakum desert. The view is particularly beautiful in the early morning and late afternoon, when the low light brings out the colours of the tiles and the texture of the mud-brick city.

Access requires a separate ticket, bought at the entrance. The lantern is small, so you may need to wait your turn at busy times.

The Islam Khoja madrasah, built at the same time, is one of the smallest in Khiva, with a little courtyard and some 40 cells, and a domed hall. It houses a museum of applied arts of Khorezm: carved wooden doors and columns, ceramics, carpets, jewellery, embroidery and metalwork. It is a good introduction to the crafts you will see in the workshops of the city, especially the woodcarving for which Khiva is famous.

Location: in the south-eastern part of Ichan-Kala, close to the Pahlavan Mahmud mausoleum.

Tickets: the madrasah museum is usually included in the Ichan-Kala combined ticket; climbing the minaret is extra.

Time needed: 30–45 minutes, including the climb and the museum.

Tips: climb early in the morning, when it is cooler and quieter, or in the late afternoon for the golden light. Bring water and wear sturdy shoes. For another view, compare with the watchtower of the Kunya Ark at sunset. See our Khiva itinerary.