Kunya Ark: the fortress of the khans of Khiva

Khiva became the capital of the khanate of Khorezm in the 17th century, and the khans built their fortress on the western side of Ichan-Kala, the walled inner town. Construction is usually dated to the late 17th century, under Arang Khan; the fortress was later called “old” (kunya) to distinguish it from the new palace of Tash-Hauli, built in the 1830s.

Like the Ark of Bukhara, the Kunya Ark was a small town of its own, with the khan’s residence and harem, mosques, the throne room, the treasury, the mint, the arsenal, stables, barracks, a prison and offices, all enclosed by high mud-brick walls. Much of it has disappeared, and some parts were rebuilt in the 19th century, but the main ceremonial buildings survive.

Entering the Ark, one of the first rooms you reach is the summer mosque, an open-air mosque with a high porch (aivan) on wooden columns. Its walls are covered in brilliant majolica tiles in blue, white and turquoise, with dense floral and geometric patterns, the work of 19th-century Khivan tile makers. The ceiling of the porch is painted in red, orange and gold. It is one of the most beautiful spaces in Khiva and a favourite with photographers. The tilework was added in the 1830s.

The Kurinish-khana, the reception and throne room, is where the khan received ambassadors and held court. Its aivan, facing a courtyard, is lined with tiles, and in the centre of the courtyard is a round brick platform on which a yurt was set up for the khan, a reminder of the nomadic origins of Khiva’s rulers. In winter the khan received guests in the yurt; in summer, under the tiled aivan. The walls of the throne room are lined with tiles in the same rich palette as the summer mosque.

The mint (zarbkhana) has a small exhibition on the coins and paper money of the khanate. Khiva printed its own banknotes in the early 20th century, some on silk. Other rooms of the Ark host exhibitions on the history of the khanate, weapons and everyday life. Displays are modest, but the setting is atmospheric.

The highlight for many visitors is the Aq Sheikh Bobo bastion, the oldest part of the fortress, built on a high mound against the western wall of Ichan-Kala. A narrow staircase leads up to a platform on top. The view is the best in Khiva: across the flat roofs, domes and courtyards of Ichan-Kala, with Kalta Minor just below, the Juma mosque minaret and the Islam Khoja minaret rising in the distance, and the walls curving around the city.

Climbing the watchtower usually requires a separate small ticket. Come in the late afternoon for the sunset over the city and the desert, but arrive early, as the platform is small and fills quickly.

Location: on the west side of Ichan-Kala, just inside the Ata Darvaza gate, opposite the Muhammad Amin Khan madrasah.

Tickets: included in the Ichan-Kala combined ticket in most cases; the watchtower is extra. Check current rules at the ticket office by the west gate.

Time needed: 1–1.5 hours, including the watchtower.

Tips: visit the mosque and throne room in the morning when the courtyards are quiet, and return for the watchtower at sunset. Wear good shoes for the steep steps. See our Khiva itinerary for how to fit it into a day.