Tash-Hauli Palace, Khiva

By the 1830s the old residence in the Kunya Ark no longer satisfied the ambitions of Allakuli Khan (ruled 1825–1842), one of the most energetic builders in Khiva’s history. He decided to build a new palace on the eastern side of Ichan-Kala, close to the bazaar and the eastern gate.

A well-known story tells that he demanded the palace be finished in two years. When the master builder, Usto Nurmuhammad, said it would take longer, he was executed. The palace was completed by other builders in about eight years. Whatever the truth, the story is told to show the absolute power of the khans.

The palace has more than 150 rooms around several courtyards, surrounded by high walls with battlements, like a fortress. Its rooms are arranged on two floors around each courtyard, with tall aivans (open porches) on carved wooden columns facing north to catch the breeze and avoid the sun.

The harem, the first part to be completed, is a long rectangular courtyard. On its southern side are five tall aivans: one for the khan, the most richly decorated, and four for his four legal wives, each leading to her private rooms. On the other sides, smaller rooms on two floors housed the concubines, servants and children.

The aivans are the glory of the palace. Their tall wooden columns, slender and carved, stand on stone bases and support high painted ceilings in red, orange and gold. The walls behind are covered in blue-and-white majolica tiles with an extraordinary variety of patterns: floral motifs, geometric stars, interlacing and stylised plants, in which, it is said, no two panels are exactly alike. Much of this tilework is attributed to the master Abdullah Jin, the most celebrated Khivan ceramicist of the time.

The Ishrat-Hauli, the reception courtyard, was used for official ceremonies and the reception of ambassadors. Its southern side has a grand aivan with tiled walls and a tall column. In the middle of the courtyard are two round brick platforms where yurts were set up. The khans of Khiva, descended from nomads, liked to receive guests and spend the winter in these felt tents within the palace walls. It is a striking image of the meeting of nomadic and urban traditions in Khorezm.

The Arz-Hauli was the courtyard where the khan held court and judged disputes. It had separate entrances for those who were pardoned and those who were condemned. Today it is partly used for exhibitions. The palace also houses small displays of clothes, crafts and objects of palace life.

Notice how the palace is designed for the climate. The tall aivans all face north, so they stay in shade through the summer, while the high ceilings and thick walls keep the rooms cool. Small courtyards create drafts of air. In winter, the family moved to smaller, warmer rooms, and the khan received guests in the felt yurt.

Location: in the north-east of Ichan-Kala, near the Palvan Darvaza (east gate) and the Allakuli Khan madrasah.

Tickets: included in the Ichan-Kala combined ticket.

Time needed: about an hour.

Tips: visit in the morning or late afternoon when the sun lights the aivans, and look closely at the tiles: each panel is different. The entrance is not obvious; follow the signs from the street. Combine with the eastern gate, the Allakuli Khan madrasah and the bazaar just outside the walls. See our Khiva itinerary and gates of Khiva.