Bukhara to Khiva: train or car

Between Bukhara and Khiva lies the Kyzylkum, the "Red Sands", one of the great deserts of Central Asia. For caravans, crossing it took many days. Today it is a day’s journey by train or car, but still the longest leg of a classic Uzbekistan tour, and one of the most memorable: wide horizons, dunes and saxaul bushes, the occasional camel, and then the green oasis of Khorezm appearing beyond the river.

Trains between Bukhara and Khiva take about 6–7 hours, crossing the desert and the Amu Darya. Day trains and overnight trains run on the route; the types of train and their timetables have changed several times since the line was upgraded, so check what runs on your dates. Carriages are air-conditioned, with seats or sleeping compartments.

Trains depart from Bukhara station in Kagan, about 15 km from the old city (20–30 minutes by taxi). Khiva station, opened in 2018, is a short walk or taxi ride from the walls of Ichan-Kala.

Tickets usually go on sale around 45 days ahead and are in high demand in spring and autumn. You need your passport. Our train ticket service can help. See also trains in Uzbekistan.

The road from Bukhara to Khiva is about 450 km and takes 6–7 hours. It runs north-west across the desert through Gazli, then for long stretches beside the Amu Darya, which here forms the border with Turkmenistan, before crossing into Khorezm. The road has been greatly improved in recent years.

Services are limited: there are a handful of roadside cafés serving tea, soup and shashlik, and fuel stations, but long stretches with nothing. Bring water and snacks. A stop at a viewpoint over the Amu Darya is a highlight.

A private car with driver is the most comfortable way. Air conditioning is essential in summer. Our transfer service offers cars, SUVs and minivans for the route, with experienced drivers.

• Train: comfortable, no fatigue of a long drive, you can walk around and sleep. Arrives right by the old city. But tickets can sell out, and departure times are fixed.
• Car: flexible departure, door-to-door from your hotel in Bukhara to your hotel in Khiva, stops when you want, and good for groups with luggage. But it is a long day sitting in a car.

For families and small groups, a minivan with driver is often the best value and comfort. Solo travellers usually take the train.

There are no direct flights between Bukhara and Urgench (the airport for Khiva). Flying via Tashkent takes longer than the train or road. The common pattern is to travel overland from Bukhara to Khiva, then fly back to Tashkent from Urgench at the end of the trip. See Urgench airport to Khiva.

• In summer, the desert is extremely hot; travel early in the morning by car, or take the train.
• In winter, Khiva is colder than Bukhara; have warm clothes accessible.
• Bring water, snacks, sunglasses and something to read or listen to.
• Mobile signal is patchy in the middle of the desert.
• Allow the rest of the day to arrive and settle in; you can walk the walls of Khiva at sunset.

A typical classic route: Tashkent → Samarkand → Bukhara → Khiva → fly to Tashkent. From Khiva, you can also continue to Nukus, the desert fortresses and the Aral Sea. See how to get to Khiva and our 7-day itinerary.