Driving in Uzbekistan

Driving yourself in Uzbekistan is possible and gives freedom, but it is not always the easiest option. Road signs are mostly in Uzbek (Latin script), sometimes Russian; local driving can be assertive; and in the desert and mountains, distances between services are long. For these reasons, most visitors prefer the train between the main cities, and a car with a local driver for day trips and routes like the desert road to Khiva or the mountain road to Termez. A driver also knows where to stop, where to eat and how to deal with checkpoints. See our transfer service.

That said, experienced drivers who want an independent road trip will find it rewarding.

• Your national driving licence plus an International Driving Permit (IDP).
• Your passport, always.
• The car’s registration documents and insurance; rental companies provide these.

If you enter Uzbekistan with your own car, you need temporary import documents at the border and compulsory local insurance. Rules change; check before you go.

Car rental exists in Tashkent and some other cities, through local companies and a few international brands. The choice is smaller than in many countries, and one-way rentals (for example, collect in Tashkent, return in Urgench) may not be possible or may cost much more. Most rental cars are Chevrolets made in Uzbekistan. Check the condition of the car, the insurance cover and what to do in case of a breakdown.

• Traffic drives on the right.
• Seat belts are compulsory.
• Uzbekistan has zero tolerance for drinking and driving.
• Speed limits are lower in towns and villages than on highways; follow the signs. Speed cameras are common, and fines are recorded electronically.
• Using a phone while driving is forbidden.
• Give way to traffic police when they signal you to stop.

Main highways, such as Tashkent–Samarkand–Bukhara and the desert road from Bukhara to Khiva, have been largely rebuilt in recent years, but some sections are under repair, and quality varies. Secondary roads can be bumpy, with potholes and unmarked hazards. In the mountains, roads over passes such as the Kamchik (to the Fergana Valley) and the Takhtakaracha (to Shakhrisabz) are scenic but winding and may be affected by snow in winter.

Watch out for livestock, pedestrians, donkey carts and slow vehicles, especially in villages. Avoid driving at night outside cities: roads are poorly lit and hazards are hard to see.

Many cars in Uzbekistan run on compressed natural gas (methane) or propane, and gas stations are common. Petrol stations are fewer, and in some regions certain grades can be hard to find. Fill up whenever you have the chance, especially before crossing the desert or driving into remote areas such as Karakalpakstan. Diesel is available at many stations. Payment is usually in cash; cards are increasingly accepted in cities.

Police checkpoints stand at regional borders, at the entrances to cities and on mountain passes. Slow down, and stop if signalled. Officers may ask for your documents and sometimes about your route. Be polite and patient; checks are usually quick. Keep your passport, licence, IDP and car papers easily accessible.

For the Kyzylkum road between Bukhara and Khiva, carry plenty of water and snacks; services are few. For the Aral Sea and the Ustyurt Plateau, a 4x4 with an experienced driver is essential: there are no signs, tracks are confusing and help is far away. Do not attempt these trips alone. See Nukus to Muynak and our Aral Sea tour.

• Trains in Uzbekistan for the main cities.
• Taxis and shared taxis.
• Domestic flights for the long distances west and south.