Khiva weather by month

Khiva lies in the oasis of Khorezm on the lower Amu Darya, at about 100 metres above sea level, between the Karakum desert to the south and the Kyzylkum to the east. Far from any sea and open to cold air from the north in winter and hot desert air in summer, it has large differences between seasons and between day and night. The air is very dry, and rainfall is among the lowest of any inhabited area in Uzbekistan.

The table gives approximate long-term averages. Individual years vary considerably, especially in winter.

March is cool and can be windy, with occasional dust; nights are still cold. The festival of Navruz on 21 March brings celebrations to Ichan-Kala. From April the oasis turns green, apricot and apple trees blossom, and days are warm and pleasant. May is excellent but increasingly hot in the afternoon. Pack layers and a warm layer for the evenings.

Summer is hot and completely dry, with afternoon temperatures often above 35 °C and sometimes above 40 °C. The mud-brick city absorbs the heat, and there is little shade in Ichan-Kala. Visit early in the morning, rest from late morning to late afternoon, and come out again in the evening, when the walls glow and the streets fill with families. Summer is the season of Khorezm’s famous melons, among the best in Central Asia. Wear a hat and light clothing, use sunscreen and drink a lot of water.

September and October are the most pleasant months: warm days, cool nights, clear skies and soft light on the walls and minarets. Markets are full of melons, grapes and pomegranates. This is the busiest season, so book accommodation and trains early. November is cooler and quiet, with cold nights and often beautifully clear days.

Winters in Khiva are cold, colder than in Bukhara or Samarkand. Days are often sunny but around freezing, and nights can fall well below −10 °C in cold spells. Snow is uncommon but possible, and turns Ichan-Kala into a magical, almost empty museum city. Some guesthouses and restaurants close in the low season, and traditional houses can be cold, so ask about heating before booking. Pack a warm coat, hat, gloves and warm shoes.

• Best overall: mid-April to May and September to mid-October.
• For festivals: Navruz around 21 March; Khiva has also hosted music and crafts festivals in spring and autumn.
• For melons: August and September.
• For solitude: December to February, if you dress warmly.

Planning a trip through Uzbekistan? Khiva is similar to Bukhara in summer but colder in winter. See Bukhara weather, Samarkand weather and how to get to Khiva.

Comfortable walking shoes for uneven paving and steep minaret stairs; a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen from April to October; a scarf for women for religious sites and against dust; layers for cold mornings and evenings in spring and autumn; and serious winter clothing from December to February. A refillable water bottle and lip balm are useful in the dry air. For climbing the minarets, a small torch helps.