Dorut-Tilavat complex, Shakhrisabz

Dorut-Tilavat grew around the graves of Timur’s family and their spiritual guides. Sheikh Shamsiddin Kulal was a Sufi teacher revered in Kesh, the old Shakhrisabz, and the spiritual mentor of Taraghay, Timur’s father. When the sheikh died in 1370, a mausoleum was built over his tomb, and Taraghay was buried nearby. The mausoleum is a simple domed building, rebuilt over the centuries, and a place of pilgrimage. Timur’s father’s grave is a reminder of the family’s roots in this small town.

The Kok-Gumbaz (“Blue Dome”) mosque is the largest building in the complex. It was built in 1435–1436 by Ulugbek, Timur’s grandson and the ruler of Samarkand, as the town’s Friday mosque, in memory of his father, Shahrukh. Its massive portal faces a square, and behind it a great blue dome on a tall drum, decorated with bands of glazed brick and inscriptions, rises over the prayer hall. The dome, among the largest of its time, is a landmark of Shakhrisabz visible from far away.

The portal and interior are decorated with tile mosaic and painted designs, partly restored. Inside, the domed hall is spacious and calm, with painted ornament in blue and gold. The mosque is in use for prayers; visitors are usually welcome outside prayer times.

Ulugbek is famous as an astronomer and builder of the Registan madrasah and the observatory in Samarkand. The Kok-Gumbaz shows that he also continued his grandfather’s architectural ambitions in Shakhrisabz.

Beside the mosque stands the Gumbazi Seyidon (“Dome of the Sayyids”), a mausoleum built by Ulugbek in 1437–1438 for descendants of the Prophet (sayyids) of the town. It is a smaller domed building with a fine portal and interior decoration of painted and glazed patterns. Inside are several tombstones. The building is a good example of the refined decoration of the late Timurid period.

The complex stands around a square with trees and a pool, part of the historic centre of Shakhrisabz that has been redeveloped into a park. Craft workshops, small shops selling Shakhrisabz embroidery and other souvenirs, and a teahouse are nearby. The town is known for its embroidery, especially red and colourful suzani and kashta work, and you may see women embroidering in the workshops.

Shakhrisabz has a long tradition of embroidery, especially kashta, dense chain-stitch embroidery on silk or cotton, and large suzani in deep reds, purples and greens with circular sun motifs. Women embroider at home and in workshops, often using designs passed down through generations. Embroidered skullcaps, cushion covers, bags and wall hangings make beautiful souvenirs. Ask your guide to take you to a workshop near the historic centre, where you can watch the work and buy directly from the makers, so that more of the price goes to the women who did the work. Prices depend on size, materials and whether the work is entirely by hand.

Location: in the southern part of the historic centre of Shakhrisabz, a short walk from the Dorus-Saodat complex and 15–20 minutes south of the Ak-Saray palace.

Tickets: a small fee may apply for the mausoleums; the mosque is usually free.

Time needed: 45 minutes to an hour.

Etiquette: dress modestly; women should bring a scarf. Avoid Friday midday prayers.

Tips: a full day in Shakhrisabz from Samarkand usually covers Ak-Saray, Dorut-Tilavat and Dorus-Saodat with lunch in between. See how to get to Shakhrisabz.