Independence Square (Mustaqillik Maydoni), Tashkent

In the Russian imperial period this area held the residence of the governor-general and official buildings. In the Soviet era it became the main parade ground of Tashkent and of Soviet Central Asia, known as Red Square and later Lenin Square, with one of the largest statues of Lenin in the Soviet Union, where parades were held on 1 May and on the anniversary of the revolution.

After independence in 1991, the square was renamed and redesigned. The Lenin statue was removed and replaced by a monument to independence, and the square became the setting for national celebrations on Independence Day (1 September) and Navruz. Government buildings, including the Senate and offices of the cabinet, stand around it.

• The Independence Monument: a tall pedestal topped by a golden globe showing the outline of Uzbekistan. In front of it sits the Happy Mother (Baxtiyor Ona), a woman holding a baby, symbolising the homeland and the future generations of the independent country.
• The Ezgulik arch (“arch of good deeds”): a long colonnade of white columns supporting a gallery, crowned with sculptures of storks, symbols of peace and good fortune in Uzbek tradition. It marks the main entrance to the square.
• The Mourning Mother memorial: at one end of the square, the Square of Memory honours the hundreds of thousands of Uzbeks who died in the Second World War. A grieving mother sits by an eternal flame, and covered galleries hold large metal books inscribed with the names of the fallen from each region. It is one of the most moving places in Tashkent.
• Fountains: avenues of fountains run through the park, which are especially popular on summer evenings.

The square is very large and largely open, with lawns, flower beds, fountains and trees. It is a pleasant place for a walk, especially in the late afternoon and evening, when families and couples come out and wedding parties pose for photographs. In winter it is quiet and spacious.

On national holidays and during official events, parts of the square may be closed to the public. On normal days, security guards may ask you not to sit on the grass or to stay on the paths.

Independence Day on 1 September is the biggest celebration of the year in Uzbekistan, with concerts, fireworks and official ceremonies centred on Tashkent. Navruz, the Persian New Year on 21 March, is celebrated with music, dance and special dishes such as sumalak, a sweet paste of sprouted wheat cooked overnight in large cauldrons. On these days parts of the square may be closed for official events, but the atmosphere in the surrounding streets and parks is festive. Remembrance Day on 9 May brings families with flowers to the Mourning Mother memorial.

Location: in the centre of Tashkent, along Navoi Avenue and the Ankhor canal.

Metro: Mustaqillik Maydoni station, on the Chilonzor line, at the edge of the square. Its interior, with chandeliers and marble, is one of the finest in the Tashkent metro.

Tickets: free.

Time needed: 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Tips: respect the memorial: be quiet and do not climb on the monuments. Photography of the square is generally allowed, but avoid photographing government buildings and security staff.

Combine with: a walk east along the pedestrian Broadway to Amir Timur Square, about 15–20 minutes, or north to the State Museum of History. The Minor mosque is a short taxi ride north along the canal.