Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre, Tashkent

The theatre was designed by Alexey Shchusev, one of the most famous Soviet architects, best known for the Lenin mausoleum in Moscow. Construction began before the Second World War and continued during it; the theatre opened in 1947, on the 30th anniversary of the October Revolution. It was named after Alisher Navoi, the 15th-century poet and statesman of Herat, regarded as the founder of literature in the Turkic language that became Uzbek.

According to a well-known account, Japanese prisoners of war, held in Uzbekistan after 1945, worked on the construction. A plaque on the building commemorates them. When the great earthquake of 1966 devastated Tashkent, the theatre survived without serious damage, and it became a symbol of the city’s resilience.

The theatre is a monumental building in a style that combines Soviet neoclassicism with Central Asian forms: a colonnaded facade, arched windows, a tower above the stage, and ornament inspired by Islamic architecture. In front of it, the Theatre Square has fountains, flower beds and benches, and is a popular place for an evening stroll.

Inside, the auditorium seats about 1,400 people, with a large stage, a richly decorated ceiling and a chandelier. The great treasure of the building is its foyers: six side halls, each decorated by master craftsmen in the style of a different region of Uzbekistan, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Fergana and Termez. Carved alabaster (ganch), painted ceilings, carved wood and tiles show the variety of regional traditions. Leading masters of the time, including Usto Shirin Muradov of Bukhara, worked on the decoration.

The theatre stages operas and ballets from the classical repertoire, such as works by Verdi, Puccini, Tchaikovsky and Bizet, and Uzbek works based on national themes and literature. The season usually runs from autumn to late spring, with a summer break.

Tickets are inexpensive by international standards and can be bought at the box office or online. Performances usually begin in the early evening. Dress is smart casual; many locals dress up. Arriving early lets you explore the decorated foyers before the performance begins. Photography during performances is not allowed.

The building is usually open only for performances, but guided tours may sometimes be arranged; ask at the box office or through your guide. At the very least, walk past in the evening when the facade and fountains are lit, and sit in the square, one of the most pleasant spots in central Tashkent.

Alisher Navoi (1441–1501) was born in Herat, then the capital of the Timurid state, and was a friend and minister of the sultan Husayn Bayqara. A statesman, patron of the arts and builder of mosques, madrasahs and hospitals, he is above all remembered as a poet. He wrote in Persian, the literary language of his time, but also in Chagatai Turkic, and argued that Turkic was just as capable of great poetry. His works, including the Khamsa, five long poems, made him the founding figure of Uzbek literature. In Uzbekistan his name is everywhere, from streets and a metro station to the national library and this theatre.

Location: in central Tashkent, between Amir Timur Square and Independence Square.

Metro: Kosmonavtlar or Mustaqillik Maydoni stations, about 10 minutes’ walk. See the Tashkent metro.

Tickets: box office at the theatre or online; buy a few days in advance for popular performances.

Time needed: 2–3 hours for a performance.

Combine with: the Amir Timur Museum and Broadway, the pedestrian street between the two squares, before the show.