Jartepa border crossing (Samarkand – Penjikent)

East of Samarkand, the valley of the Zeravshan river narrows as it climbs towards the mountains of Tajikistan. The crossing at Jartepa has made it easy again to combine Samarkand with Penjikent, an ancient Sogdian city only a short distance across the border, and with the spectacular lakes and peaks of the Fann mountains. For many years this border was closed; since it reopened, it has become one of the most popular crossings for travellers in the region.

For an overview of all crossings, see border crossings in Central Asia.

Jartepa is about 40–45 km south-east of Samarkand, roughly 1 hour by car. A taxi or private car with driver is the easiest way. See our transfer service. Shared taxis also run towards the border. Uzbek drivers usually stop at the border; you continue on foot and take a Tajik taxi on the other side.

1. Uzbek exit: passport control and customs, with luggage X-ray. Keep your hotel registration slips; they may be checked. Declare large amounts of cash if required.
2. Walk across the neutral zone.
3. Tajik entry: passport and visa check, customs.

Allow 30 minutes to 1.5 hours. The crossing is usually less busy than those near Tashkent, but groups can create queues in high season.

Many nationalities can enter Tajikistan visa-free for a limited period, and others can get an e-visa online. The Pamirs require an additional GBAO permit. Rules change; check for your nationality before travelling. See Central Asia visas.

If you plan to come back to Uzbekistan, make sure your entry allows it. See Uzbekistan visa and entry rules.

Right next to the border, on the Tajik side, is Sarazm, one of the oldest settlements in Central Asia, dating back more than 5,000 years, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is worth a short stop.

Penjikent, about 20–30 minutes from the border, has the ruins of ancient Penjikent, a Sogdian city of the 5th–8th centuries famous for its wall paintings, some of which are now in the Hermitage in St Petersburg and the local museum. The town has a bazaar and simple hotels and guesthouses.

From Penjikent, a road leads up the valley of the Shing river to the Seven Lakes (Haft Kul), a chain of mountain lakes in shades of turquoise and green, with villages and homestays along the way. It is a popular day or overnight trip.

Further east, the Fann mountains, with peaks above 5,000 metres, offer some of the best trekking in Central Asia, around lakes such as Iskanderkul, Alauddin and Kulikalon. Trekking is best from June to September.

• Day trip from Samarkand: cross early, visit Sarazm and ancient Penjikent, and return in the evening. Check that your Uzbek entry allows re-entry.
• 2–3 days: add the Seven Lakes, with a night in a homestay.
• Longer: continue to Iskanderkul and Dushanbe, or trek in the Fann mountains, then return via Khujand and the Oybek border to Tashkent.

See how to get to Samarkand for connections on the Uzbek side.

• Check the border’s current opening hours before you go.
• Carry small amounts of som and Tajik somoni.
• Do not take photographs at the checkpoints.
• In winter, roads to the Seven Lakes and the Fann mountains can be closed by snow.
• A local guide or driver in Tajikistan makes the trip to the lakes easier.