Chashma holy spring, Nurata

At the foot of the fortress hill in Nurata, water bubbles up from the ground into a stone-lined pool and flows away in a channel towards the gardens. The spring has never been known to dry up, and its water stays at a fairly constant cool temperature throughout the year. For people in a dry land, that alone made it sacred.

Legends explain its origin in different ways. One says that a bright light, nur, fell from the sky here, perhaps a meteorite, and that the water burst out where it struck; this is said to have given the town its name. Another links the spring to Hazrat Ali, the cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad, who is said to have struck the ground with his staff. Both stories are told to pilgrims today.

The pool and the channel are full of fish, mainly a species of the carp family, which swim in large shoals in the clear water. They are considered sacred: it is forbidden to catch or eat them, and local people say that anyone who does will be punished. Pilgrims and children feed them with bread. Watching the shoals turn and flash in the sunlight is one of the pleasures of a visit.

Please follow local practice: do not throw anything into the water other than small pieces of bread, and do not try to touch or catch the fish.

Around the spring stand several religious buildings. The most notable is the Juma (Friday) mosque, whose roof is covered by a large number of small domes resting on columns, a style found in older mosques of the region. Its date is debated; parts may be medieval, and it has been rebuilt and restored many times.

Nearby is the Panj Vakt mosque, whose name refers to the five daily prayers, and a small bathhouse (hammam). The courtyards are shaded by old trees and are a cool place to rest. The complex is an active place of worship, especially on Fridays and during religious holidays.

People come to Chashma from all over Uzbekistan, especially from the regions of Navoi, Samarkand, Bukhara and Jizzakh. They come to pray, to drink the water and fill bottles to take home, to wash their hands and faces, and to ask for health, children or good fortune. Families often bring a sheep for a sacrifice and share a meal. On busy days the atmosphere is lively and friendly, and you may be invited to share tea or bread. Stalls near the entrance sell bread for the fish, snacks and souvenirs.

Location: in the centre of Nurata, at the foot of the Nurata fortress hill.

Tickets: there may be a small entrance fee for the complex.

Time needed: about 1 hour, or 1.5 hours with the fortress climb.

Dress and behaviour: this is a holy place. Cover shoulders and knees; women should bring a scarf for the mosques. Remove shoes where asked. Ask before photographing people praying.

Tips: Fridays are the busiest days. Combine with the fortress, then continue to a yurt camp near Lake Aydarkul for the night, or to a homestay in Sentob in the Nuratau mountains. From Navoi, you can add the Sarmishsay petroglyphs and the Rabati Malik caravanserai. We arrange cars and drivers for the route.