Mullah Kyrgyz Madrasah, Namangan

The madrasah was funded by Mullah Muhammad Kyrgyz, a wealthy and respected man of Namangan in the early 20th century. Tradition says he was of Kyrgyz origin, hence his name, and that he built the madrasah to provide religious education for the youth of the city. It was completed around 1910, at the end of the period of the Kokand khanate’s influence and under Russian rule, when local merchants and landowners funded many religious buildings in the Fergana Valley.

The madrasah follows the traditional plan, with a courtyard surrounded by student cells, a mosque and lecture halls under domes. What makes it special is the decoration of the facade. Instead of covering the surfaces with glazed tiles, as in Samarkand or Khiva, the builders used baked brick laid in patterns: geometric stars, interlacing, rosettes and inscriptions created by setting bricks at different angles and depths. The effect is like carved lace in brick, with deep shadows that change with the sun. A few touches of glazed tile add colour.

The portal is framed by slender corner towers (guldasta) and crowned by domes. The building is a fine example of the regional style of the Fergana Valley in the early 20th century, showing how traditional techniques were still practised at a high level just before the Soviet period.

In the Soviet era the madrasah was closed and used for other purposes, at times as a museum. After independence it was restored and returned to religious use. Visitors can usually see the facade and courtyard; some parts may be closed.

Namangan is one of the largest cities of the Fergana Valley, in the north of the valley, known for its gardens and flowers: it hosts an annual flower festival in spring. It has a more conservative character than some other cities in Uzbekistan. Besides the madrasah, sights include:

• The Khoja Amin mausoleum, an 18th-century tomb with fine tiled decoration, one of the oldest buildings in the city.
• The ruins of Akhsikent, an ancient city on the Syr Darya south-west of Namangan, once a capital of the Fergana Valley; Babur’s father died there in 1494 when a dovecote collapsed.
• Chust, a town nearby famous for its knives and black-and-white skullcaps.
• The central bazaar and parks.

Every spring, usually in May, Namangan hosts a flower festival that fills the city’s central park with displays of roses and other flowers, sculptures made of flowers, music and crafts. It attracts visitors from across Uzbekistan and from abroad, and is a colourful time to visit the city. Check the dates locally, as they vary from year to year. Hotels fill up quickly during the festival, so book early if you plan to stay overnight in the city.

Location: in the centre of Namangan, in the north of the Fergana Valley.

Tickets: usually free; donations welcome.

Time needed: 30 minutes.

Etiquette: dress modestly; it may be in religious use.

Tips: photograph the brick facade in the morning or late afternoon, when the low sun brings out the relief. Combine with the Khoja Amin mausoleum and a visit to Chust for knives and skullcaps. Namangan can be reached by train from Tashkent and is about 1–1.5 hours from Andijan or Fergana. See how to get to the Fergana Valley.