Holy Assumption Cathedral, Tashkent

After the Russian conquest of Tashkent in 1865, Russian soldiers, officials, merchants and settlers arrived in large numbers, and churches were built in the new European part of the city. In the Soviet period, the Russian-speaking population grew further, with workers, specialists and, after the 1966 earthquake, builders from across the Soviet Union. Many churches were closed or destroyed in the anti-religious campaigns of the 1920s and 1930s.

Today Uzbekistan is a mainly Muslim country, but there is still a significant Orthodox community, mostly Russian, Ukrainian and Korean, as well as Catholic, Protestant and Armenian churches. The cathedral is the centre of the Tashkent and Uzbekistan diocese of the Russian Orthodox Church.

The church was built in the second half of the 19th century as the church of a military hospital cemetery, a modest building in the Russian style. In the Soviet period it was closed for a time, and in the 1940s, when Soviet policy towards the Orthodox Church relaxed during the Second World War, it was returned to the faithful and became the cathedral of Tashkent.

Since independence the cathedral has been extensively renovated and enlarged, with a new bell tower and gilded onion domes. The bright blue and white colours, the gold domes and the decoration make it a striking sight, especially in sunshine against the blue sky.

The interior is decorated in the traditional Orthodox way: walls covered with icons and paintings, a gilded iconostasis separating the sanctuary from the nave, chandeliers and candles. There are no pews; the faithful stand during services. The atmosphere during the liturgy, with chanting, incense and candlelight, is moving even for visitors who do not share the faith.

If you visit during a service, you will notice that worshippers make the sign of the cross, bow and kiss the icons, and light thin candles that they place before images of Christ, the Virgin Mary and the saints. The cathedral is dedicated to the Dormition, or Assumption, of the Virgin Mary, celebrated on 28 August in the Orthodox calendar, one of the main feasts of the year. On Sundays and feast days the church fills with families, and the choir sings the liturgy, which can last two hours or more. Visitors may stand at the back and leave quietly at any time.

The cathedral is an active place of worship. Visitors are welcome, especially outside the main services. Dress modestly: men should remove hats; women usually cover their heads with a scarf and wear a skirt or dress, though trousers are generally tolerated for visitors. Speak quietly, and do not photograph during services without permission; outside services, ask whether photography is allowed. You can buy candles at the entrance and light them before the icons.

Location: in the south-east of central Tashkent, near the main railway station.

Getting there: by metro to Toshkent station, the station for the railway, then a short walk or taxi. See the Tashkent metro.

Tickets: free; donations welcome.

Time needed: 20–30 minutes.

Best time: morning or late afternoon for photographs of the exterior; Sunday morning or the eve of a major feast to experience a service. Orthodox Christmas (7 January) and Easter are the most important celebrations.

Combine with: a visit before taking a train to Samarkand or Bukhara from the nearby station, or with the State Museum of Arts.