Alat – Farap border crossing (Bukhara – Turkmenabat)

South-west of Bukhara, the road runs across the dry edge of the oasis to the town of Alat and the border with Turkmenistan. On the other side, at Farap, the road continues to the Amu Darya and the city of Turkmenabat (formerly Chardzhou). For centuries this was a Silk Road route between Bukhara and Merv, one of the great cities of the ancient world, whose ruins are today a UNESCO World Heritage site.

For an overview of all crossings, see border crossings in Central Asia.

Most visitors need a Turkmen tourist visa, which requires a letter of invitation (LOI) from a licensed Turkmen agency and usually a guided itinerary, or a transit visa from a Turkmen embassy for a short trip through the country. Your visa may be valid only for specific dates and border crossings, so make sure Farap is listed if required. Expect to pay entry fees in US dollars at the border, in clean banknotes.

Rules change; arrange everything well in advance. See Central Asia visas.

The border is about 90 km from Bukhara, roughly 1.5 hours by car via Kagan and Alat. A taxi or private car with driver is the simplest way; see our transfer service. Shared taxis also go towards Alat. Uzbek cars usually take you to the border only; your Turkmen guide or a taxi waits on the other side.

1. Uzbek exit: passport control and customs, with luggage X-ray. Keep your hotel registration slips; they may be checked.
2. Neutral zone: a walk or short shuttle between the checkpoints.
3. Turkmen entry: passport and visa check, payment of fees, migration card and customs declaration. Luggage is often searched thoroughly.

Allow 1–3 hours in total. Arrive in the morning to leave time for the onward journey.

• Turkmenabat: about 1 hour from the border, after crossing the Amu Darya; a regional city with hotels and a bazaar.
• Merv: about 4 hours from Turkmenabat, near the city of Mary; a vast archaeological site spanning more than two thousand years, with the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, the fortress of Gyaur Kala and the Kyz Kala "castles".
• Ashgabat: about 4–5 hours from Mary, or reached by domestic flight.
• The gas crater: in the Karakum desert, north of Ashgabat on the road to Dashoguz.

A classic route crosses Turkmenistan between two Uzbek cities: enter at Farap from Bukhara, visit Merv, Ashgabat and the gas crater, then go north to Kunya-Urgench and exit at the Shavat border to Khiva, or the reverse. This takes 4–6 days and connects the Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan with the main sights of Turkmenistan. See Bukhara to Khiva if you return directly through Uzbekistan instead.

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the best times. Summer in the Karakum desert is extremely hot; winter can be cold, especially at night. Check the border’s opening hours and any holiday closures before you go.

• Confirm with your Turkmen agency which crossing and dates your visa allows.
• Bring US dollars in small, clean notes for fees.
• Do not photograph border facilities.
• Carry printed copies of your LOI and hotel bookings.
• Internet and roaming are limited in Turkmenistan; download offline maps before you cross.
• Exchange money only at official places in Turkmenistan; your guide can advise on the current situation.