A night in a desert yurt camp in Uzbekistan: what to expect

After days of monuments, madrasahs and bazaars, a night in the desert is a complete change. The Kyzylkum, the "Red Sands", covers a huge area of Uzbekistan between the great cities, and it has its own beauty: endless horizons, sand dunes and saxaul bushes, silence, and a night sky without light pollution. Sleeping in a yurt, the round felt tent of Central Asian nomads, connects you with the region’s nomadic past. For many travellers it becomes one of the most memorable nights of the whole trip.

Lake Aydarkul and the Kyzylkum (between Samarkand and Bukhara). Several camps stand in the desert near Lake Aydarkul, a large lake created by accident in the 1960s–1970s when floodwater was diverted from the Syr Darya. The camps are usually combined with a drive from Samarkand via the Nuratau mountains and the town of Nurata, or a village homestay in Sentob. In season, you can swim in the lake. See Lake Aydarkul.

Ayaz Kala (near Khiva). In Karakalpakstan, about 1.5–2 hours from Khiva, a camp stands below the ruined fortress of Ayaz Kala, part of the desert fortresses of ancient Khorezm. Climbing the fortress at sunset, then sleeping in the camp, is unforgettable.

Other camps exist near Nukus and on the shore of the Aral Sea, reached by 4x4.

A typical stay at a camp near Aydarkul or Ayaz Kala:

1. Arrival in the afternoon: tea, a welcome and time to settle into your yurt.
2. Camel ride: a short ride on Bactrian (two-humped) camels across the dunes, often at sunset.
3. Sunset: watch the sky change colour over the desert or from the fortress walls.
4. Dinner: a hearty meal, often soup, salads, plov or shashlik, bread and tea, in a dining yurt or outside.
5. Campfire: in the evening, guests gather around the fire. At some camps, an akyn, a traditional singer, performs Kazakh or Karakalpak songs with the dombra.
6. Stars: far from cities, the Milky Way is clearly visible on clear nights.
7. Sunrise: early risers can watch the dawn over the desert before breakfast.

Yurts are surprisingly cosy. They are made of a wooden frame covered with layers of felt and decorated inside with colourful textiles. You sleep on mattresses or simple beds with blankets, usually in yurts for two to six people; private yurts are often available. Camps have shared bathrooms with toilets and sometimes showers, usually in a separate building; facilities are basic but clean. Electricity may be limited to certain hours; bring a power bank.

It is camping with comfort rather than a hotel. Most travellers find it charming; if you need luxury, one night is usually enough.

Camps generally operate from about April to October. April–May and September–October are ideal: warm days and cool nights. In summer, days are very hot, but evenings and nights in the desert are pleasant, and the stars are spectacular. In spring and autumn, nights can be cold, close to freezing; the camps provide blankets, but bring warm clothes. Most camps close in winter.

• Warm layers for the evening and night, even in summer.
• Torch or headlamp.
• Power bank for your phone and camera.
• Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses for the day.
• Wet wipes, toiletries and a small towel.
• A small bag for one night; leave big luggage in the car.
• Camera and tripod for the stars.

Camps near Aydarkul are about 4–5 hours by road from Samarkand via the Nuratau mountains, or about 3–4 hours from Bukhara. The Ayaz Kala camp is about 1.5–2 hours from Khiva. There is no public transport; you need a car with driver, usually as part of a tour or a transfer between cities. A popular plan: Samarkand → Nuratau → yurt camp → Nurata → Bukhara over two days. See Samarkand to Bukhara and our 14-day itinerary.

• Book in advance in spring and autumn.
• Tell the camp about dietary needs; vegetarian food is possible if requested.
• Camel rides are short and gentle; tell the guide if you are nervous.
• The desert is quiet: respect other guests at night.
• Take your rubbish with you, and do not leave anything in the desert.

The yurt is the traditional home of the nomadic peoples of Central Asia, including the Kazakhs, Karakalpaks and Kyrgyz. It can be assembled or dismantled in a few hours and carried on camels or horses. Its round shape resists the strong winds of the steppe, and the felt keeps the inside cool in summer and warm in winter. The opening at the top, the tunduk, lets out smoke and lets in light; it is such an important symbol that it appears on the flag of Kyrgyzstan. Sleeping in a yurt is a small taste of a way of life that shaped the region for millennia.

A night in the desert fits easily into a classic route. Between Samarkand and Bukhara, it turns a long transfer into an experience; near Khiva, it adds the desert fortresses and a night under the stars. One night is enough for most travellers; two nights allow walks, swimming in Lake Aydarkul and a more relaxed pace. See Lake Aydarkul and Ayaz Kala.

Yes, with a little preparation. Children usually love the camels, the campfire and sleeping in a yurt; bring warm pyjamas and a torch. Older travellers should know that the yurts have low doors, mattresses are close to the floor, and the bathrooms are a short walk away across sand, so a torch and good shoes help at night. Camps can usually provide a private yurt and extra blankets on request. If you are unsure, one night is a good test, and the camp staff are used to helping guests of all ages. See Uzbekistan with kids.