Uzbekistan wine: history, grapes and where to taste it

Grapes have been cultivated in Central Asia since antiquity. Archaeologists have found evidence of winemaking in ancient Sogdiana, around Samarkand, and in Bactria in the south. Chinese chronicles of the Han dynasty mention the vineyards of the Fergana Valley, and the Chinese brought grapevines home from the region. After the arrival of Islam, wine production declined, but grape growing continued for fresh and dried fruit, and Uzbekistan remains famous for its many varieties of grapes and raisins.

Modern winemaking began after the Russian conquest in the 19th century. In 1868, the merchant Daniil Filatov founded a winery near Samarkand, and in the 1920s, the winemaker Mikhail Khovrenko developed the famous dessert wines of Samarkand. The historic Khovrenko winery in Samarkand still operates and has a museum and tasting room where visitors can taste its range. In the Soviet period, Uzbekistan became a major producer of grapes, wine and brandy for the whole Soviet Union.

• Dessert and fortified wines: the traditional speciality, sweet and rich, made from grapes such as Muscat, Kaberne and local varieties. Names like Gulyakandoz and Aleatiko are classics.
• Dry wines: red wines from Saperavi, Cabernet Sauvignon and others; white wines from Rkatsiteli, Bayan Shirey and Muscat.
• Brandy (konyak), also produced in several regions.

In recent years, investments and new private producers have improved quality and created modern wineries, some with guest houses and restaurants among the vineyards.

• Samarkand: the Khovrenko winery tasting room, a short walk from the centre, offers tastings of around ten wines with explanations. It is one of the most popular activities in the city. See things to do in Samarkand.
• Samarkand region and Bagizagan: newer wineries in the countryside around Samarkand welcome visitors for tastings and meals.
• Tashkent: wine bars and restaurants serve Uzbek and imported wines. See Tashkent nightlife.
• Fergana Valley and Parkent near Tashkent: vineyards and smaller producers.

Book tastings in advance in high season, and check opening hours.

Uzbek food pairs well with red wine: shashlik, plov and lamb dishes go with a Saperavi, while dried fruit, nuts and halva suit the sweet dessert wines. Many restaurants in Samarkand, Bukhara and Tashkent serve wine; traditional teahouses usually do not. See Samarkand food and Uzbek dishes.

Even if you do not drink wine, Uzbekistan’s grapes are a delight. In August and September, bazaars overflow with dozens of varieties, from small seedless green grapes to large red and black ones. Dried grapes, raisins of many colours, are sold all year. See Uzbekistan in September.

Uzbekistan is a secular, Muslim-majority country. Alcohol is legal and widely available in shops and restaurants, and many Uzbeks drink, especially at celebrations, where vodka and wine are common. At the same time, many people do not drink for religious reasons. As a visitor:

• Drink in restaurants, bars and wineries rather than in public spaces.
• Do not bring alcohol to mosques, shrines or religious families’ homes.
• Respect those who decline a drink.
• During Ramadan, be especially discreet. See Ramadan in Uzbekistan.

Bottles from the Samarkand wineries make good gifts. Check your airline’s rules for liquids and your home country’s customs allowances. Pack bottles carefully in checked luggage. See Uzbekistan customs rules.

If you are new to Uzbek wine, start with a structured tasting at a winery, where a guide explains each wine and its history. Tastings usually move from dry whites to dry reds and finish with the sweet and fortified wines for which Samarkand is famous. Taste slowly, as dessert wines can be strong, and eat some bread, dried fruit or nuts between glasses. Ask which grapes are local and which are international, and how the climate, with its very hot summers and cold winters, shapes the style. Many visitors are surprised by the quality of the newer dry reds, while lovers of sweet wines enjoy the rich, raisin-like flavours of the traditional dessert wines.

Vineyards are found in the Zeravshan valley around Samarkand, in the foothills near Tashkent and Parkent, in the Fergana Valley and in the south. In late summer, the grape harvest brings colour and activity to the villages, and you will see grapes drying on rooftops and in special drying houses to make raisins. A visit to a vineyard can be combined with a walk in the countryside, a meal in a village and a stop at a bazaar to taste the many varieties of fresh grapes. Some modern wineries offer lunch or dinner among the vines with views of the mountains, a pleasant contrast to the busy cities.

Uzbekistan is not only about wine. Try green tea, served everywhere and part of every meal; see Uzbek tea culture. Local beer is widely available. In summer, refreshing ayran and qatiq (yoghurt drinks), kompot (fruit drinks) and fresh juices from pomegranates, apricots or grapes are popular. In Tashkent, a growing number of cafés serve good coffee. At celebrations, toasts are often made with vodka or brandy; it is polite to raise your glass even if you only take a sip.

At Uzbek weddings and family celebrations, wine, vodka and brandy are often served with long toasts by guests and hosts. If you are invited, it is polite to listen to the toasts and raise your glass; you can drink water or juice if you prefer, and nobody will insist if you explain politely. In families that do not drink for religious reasons, tea and soft drinks replace alcohol entirely. See Uzbek wedding traditions.

Book tastings in advance, especially for groups. Do not drive after a tasting; use a taxi or a driver. Tastings are usually suitable for adults only, and you can ask for juice or tea if you prefer not to drink.