Food
Uzbek tea culture and the chaikhana
A guide to tea in Uzbekistan, from the green tea of the south and the black tea of Tashkent to the rituals of pouring, the half-full cup, the chaikhana teahouse with its raised platforms, what to eat with tea, etiquette for guests and where to experience tea culture.
Tea (choy) is the drink of hospitality in Uzbekistan. Green tea (ko‘k choy) is most common, black tea is popular in Tashkent. The host pours tea back into the pot three times before serving and fills cups only half full, so they can be refilled often. The chaikhana (teahouse) is the traditional place to meet, eat and talk.
Tea and hospitality
In Uzbekistan, tea is offered to every guest, at every meal and at every hour of the day. Saying yes to tea is saying yes to friendship. When you visit a family, a shop or even an office, you will probably be offered a cup, often with bread, dried fruit, nuts and sweets. Tea is drunk hot, even in summer, as Uzbeks believe it cools the body and helps digestion, especially after a rich meal of plov.
Green or black?
Green tea (ko‘k choy) is the everyday drink in most of the country, including Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and the Fergana Valley. In Tashkent, many people prefer black tea (qora choy). Tea is usually drunk plain, without milk or sugar, though sugar, honey or navat (crystallised sugar) may be offered. In winter, tea may be flavoured with spices, and in Khorezm and Karakalpakstan, tea with milk and salt is sometimes drunk.
The pouring ritual
Tea is brewed in a teapot (choynak) and served in small bowls without handles (piyola). The host pours a bowl and pours it back into the pot, usually three times, to mix the tea. Some say these three pours are called loy, moy and choy: "clay", "oil" and "tea".
The host then fills each bowl only half full or less. This is a sign of respect: it keeps the tea warm and means the host will refill your bowl often, showing they want you to stay. A full bowl, by contrast, can suggest that it is time for the guest to leave. The host usually serves the eldest or most honoured guest first, passing the bowl with the right hand, the left hand on the heart.
The chaikhana
The chaikhana (choyxona), or teahouse, is a central institution in Uzbek life. Traditionally a place where men gather to drink tea, eat, talk, play games and discuss news, today it is open to everyone, including visitors and families. Many chaikhanas are by a stream, a pool or under shady trees, and have raised wooden platforms (tapchan or sori) covered with carpets and cushions, around a low table, where you sit cross-legged or recline.
Chaikhanas serve tea and simple, delicious food: plov at lunchtime, shashlik, lagman, samsa, soups and bread. They are usually cheaper and more authentic than restaurants. The Lyabi-Hauz in Bukhara has been a place of teahouses for centuries.
What to eat with tea
- Non, the round bread. See Uzbek bread.
- Dried fruit: apricots, raisins, figs.
- Nuts: almonds, walnuts, pistachios.
- Sweets: navat, halva, parvarda, chak-chak.
- Fresh fruit in season.
Tea is also served after the main meal to help digestion. See Uzbek dishes.
Etiquette for guests
- Accept tea when offered; refusing can seem impolite. You can drink only a little.
- Receive the bowl with the right hand, or both hands, and say rahmat ("thank you").
- To show you have had enough, cover the bowl with your hand or leave it with a little tea.
- Do not pour tea for yourself without offering it to others first.
- In a home, the host or a younger family member pours; let them serve you.
See our guide to etiquette in Central Asia and Uzbek phrases.
Where to experience tea culture
- Chaikhanas in every city and village, especially at lunchtime.
- Lyabi-Hauz in Bukhara, among the mulberry trees.
- Old-town teahouses in Khiva and Samarkand.
- Family homes and guesthouses, where tea is served at every moment.
- Bazaars, where traders invite customers for tea.
Combine a teahouse visit with plov at lunchtime: see Uzbek plov.
Frequently asked questions
What tea do Uzbeks drink?
Mainly green tea; black tea is popular in Tashkent.
Why do Uzbeks fill tea cups only halfway?
It is a sign of respect, keeping the tea warm and allowing the host to refill the cup often.
What is a chaikhana?
A traditional teahouse where people meet to drink tea, eat and talk, often on raised platforms called tapchans.
Rules, timetables and prices change. We check this page regularly, but always confirm entry requirements with official sources before you travel.
