Ayaz Kala fortress

Of the dozens of ruined fortresses that dot the northern edge of the Khorezm oasis, Ayaz Kala is the most photogenic. Its walls crown a steep, isolated ridge above the sand, and from the top you look out over the Kyzylkum desert, the salt flats and the waters of Lake Akchakul. It is the highlight of most trips to the desert fortresses of Khorezm, and its camp of felt yurts makes it the best place to spend a night in the desert near Khiva.

The site is usually described as three separate structures, numbered by archaeologists.

Ayaz Kala 1, on the summit of the ridge, is the oldest, dated to around the 4th–3rd century BC. It is a rectangular fortress with thick double walls, rounded towers and a fortified entrance, but inside it seems to have had few permanent buildings. It may have been a border fort or a refuge for the people of the oasis in times of danger.

Ayaz Kala 2, on a lower hill to the south, is the most impressive from the ground. It dates mainly from the 6th–8th centuries AD, in the early medieval period, and had a palace or residence inside its oval walls. Its tall, eroded walls look like a castle from a legend.

Ayaz Kala 3, at the foot of the hills, is a large rectangular enclosure from around the first centuries AD, with the remains of buildings inside. It was excavated in the 20th century and is easiest to understand from above.

Local tradition links the name to Ayaz, a legendary hero or slave of a powerful ruler, who according to the story was rewarded with the fortress. The real names of the forts in antiquity are unknown. They were studied by the Khorezm archaeological and ethnographic expedition of Sergei Tolstov from the late 1930s, which mapped the fortresses of the region and showed how they protected the irrigated oasis from the nomads of the steppe.

A sandy path climbs to Ayaz Kala 1 from the car park; the walk takes about 15–20 minutes and is steep in places. Inside the walls you can walk round the ramparts and look down on Ayaz Kala 2 and 3, the yurt camp and the desert beyond.

The best time is early morning or late afternoon. At sunset the clay walls turn orange and pink, and the shadows reveal the shapes of towers and gates. In summer the heat at midday is intense, so avoid the climb then.

Below the fortresses, a yurt camp offers meals and simple overnight stays in traditional felt yurts, with shared bathrooms. Day visitors often stop here for lunch. Staying the night gives you the sunset from the fortress, dinner under the stars, a very dark sky away from city lights, and the sunrise over the desert. Camel rides are sometimes offered. Bring warm clothes in spring and autumn: desert nights are cold. See the desert fortresses with a yurt camp section for more details.

Location: in the Ellikqala district of Karakalpakstan, about 1.5–2 hours by road north of Khiva.

Tickets: a small entrance fee may be charged at the site.

Time needed: about 1.5 hours, or overnight in the camp.

Tips: wear shoes with a good grip, bring water, sunscreen and a hat, and stay on the paths: the walls are fragile mud brick. Combine with Toprak Kala and Kyzyl Kala, a short drive away, on our desert fortresses day tour from Khiva. Drivers who know the area are important: the last stretch to the camp is on a desert track.