Kyzyl Kala fortress

Of all the desert fortresses of Khorezm, Kyzyl Kala is the simplest to understand. It is a square of thick mud-brick walls, about 65 by 65 metres, with towers at the corners and along the sides, standing alone on the flat plain. The name means "red fortress" in the Turkic languages of the region, after the warm colour of its bricks, especially at sunrise and sunset.

Because it is small, compact and partly restored, Kyzyl Kala is often the first stop on a tour of the fortresses: a good introduction to how these forts were built before you see the larger and more eroded sites of Toprak Kala and Ayaz Kala.

Archaeologists date the first construction of Kyzyl Kala to around the 1st–2nd century AD, when nearby Toprak Kala was a royal residence. Its role is not certain. It may have been a fortified manor, a guard post on the road and canals leading to Toprak Kala, or a place of refuge. Like many fortresses of the region, it was abandoned and later reused in the 12th–13th centuries, during the time of the Khorezmshahs, before the Mongol invasion of 1220–1221.

The fort stood on the edge of the irrigated oasis. When the canals that fed the area dried up, the land around it turned to desert, which is why it now stands so isolated.

Kyzyl Kala shows clearly the techniques used across ancient Khorezm. The lower walls were built of rammed earth (pakhsa), with layers of clay pressed into blocks, and the upper parts of sun-dried mud brick. Narrow arrow slits pierce the walls, and the towers project so that defenders could shoot along the base of the walls. Inside, there were rooms on two levels around a central space.

In the 2000s, parts of the walls were restored to protect them from erosion, which is why they look sharper and more regular than at other sites. The restoration gives a good idea of the original height and shape of the fortress.

Walk around the outside first to see the walls, towers and arrow slits; then go through the entrance to the interior. The upper levels give a view across the flat landscape to Toprak Kala, the fields and the desert. The fort takes 20–30 minutes to explore.

The site is especially beautiful in the early morning and late afternoon light, which brings out the red tones of the bricks. Photographers should look for the contrast between the restored, sharp-edged sections and the older, wind-rounded walls, and for the long shadows cast by the towers across the plain.

Location: in the Ellikqala district of Karakalpakstan, a few kilometres from Toprak Kala, about 1.5 hours by road from Khiva.

Tickets: a small entrance fee may be charged.

Time needed: 20–30 minutes.

Tips: there is no shade or café at the site; bring water and a hat. Please do not climb on the walls outside the paths, as the mud brick is fragile.

Kyzyl Kala is included on our desert fortresses day tour from Khiva, with Toprak Kala, Ayaz Kala and lunch in the yurt camp. It is also easy to visit on the way between Khiva and Nukus, with a stop at the Chilpik tower of silence. For a longer exploration of the region, add Big Guldursun.