Big Guldursun fortress

Further from the main road than Toprak Kala and Ayaz Kala, Big Guldursun is the fortress for travellers who want to go a little further. Its sheer size is the first surprise: a vast rectangle of high mud-brick walls with rounded towers, standing alone in a landscape of sand, scrub and salt flats. Few tourists come here, and you may have it to yourself.

It is one of the most impressive sites among the desert fortresses of Khorezm, and archaeologists consider it one of the largest military structures of the region.

The fortress was probably first built in the last centuries BC, during the period of ancient Khorezm, as a strongpoint on the edge of the irrigated oasis. Like many fortresses, it was abandoned for long periods. It was rebuilt and strengthened in the 12th century, when the Khorezmshahs ruled a powerful empire from their capital Gurganj (today Kunya-Urgench).

In 1220–1221 the armies of Genghis Khan invaded Khorezm, destroyed its cities and broke its irrigation dams. Big Guldursun was taken and ruined, and the canals that watered the surrounding land were never fully restored. The desert advanced, and the fortress was left to the wind.

Excavations found arrowheads, pottery and evidence of fire, consistent with a violent end.

The fortress takes its name from a well-known local legend. Besieged by an enemy army (in different versions, Kalmyks or other invaders) the fortress resisted for a long time, protected by its strong walls. The king’s daughter, Guldursun, saw the young enemy prince and fell in love with him. She secretly told him how to take the fortress: according to some versions, by cutting off its water. The fortress fell.

But the prince did not reward her. Disgusted that she had betrayed her own father and people, he had her put to death. The story, told across Karakalpakstan and Khorezm, is a warning about loyalty and betrayal. Guides like to tell it on the walls.

The walls are best seen from outside first: walk along one side to appreciate their height, the rounded towers and the remains of the gate. Inside, the large enclosure is mostly empty, with traces of buildings and low mounds. From the top of the walls you can see the full shape of the fortress and the desert around it.

Allow 45 minutes to an hour. The site is open and unfenced; please stay on paths and avoid climbing on unstable sections of wall.

Big Guldursun lies in the south of Karakalpakstan, in the Beruni district, roughly 2 hours by road from Khiva. Part of the route is on rural roads and the last stretch on a dirt track, so an experienced local driver is essential. It is not on the standard day tour route, but can be added to a longer day or to a two-day trip with a night in the yurt camp at Ayaz Kala.

A full day from Khiva might include Big Guldursun, Kyzyl Kala, Toprak Kala and Ayaz Kala. See our desert fortresses day tour and ask us to include Guldursun.

There are no facilities at the site: no shade, water, café or toilets. Bring plenty of water, sun protection and a hat, and in spring and autumn a warm layer for the wind. The best seasons are April–May and September–October. In summer, visit in the morning or late afternoon.

Mobile signal may be weak. Tell your hotel where you are going, and travel with a driver who knows the tracks.