Bahauddin Naqshband memorial complex, Bukhara

Bahauddin Naqshband was born in 1318 in the village of Kasri Orifon near Bukhara, where he is buried. His name Naqshband is often explained as “the one who draws the pattern”, perhaps from his family’s craft of decorating textiles or, figuratively, from impressing the name of God on the heart.

He became a Sufi master in a line of spiritual teachers from Central Asia known as the Khwajagan, “the masters”. He taught a way of mysticism that did not require withdrawal from the world: his followers were encouraged to work, trade and live in society while keeping God constantly in their hearts. His famous saying, “the heart with God, the hands at work” (dil ba yor, dast ba kor), is still quoted in Uzbekistan. He favoured silent remembrance of God (dhikr) rather than ecstatic music and dance.

After his death the Naqshbandi order spread from Central Asia to India, Turkey, the Caucasus, the Balkans and beyond, and it remains one of the most influential Sufi orders today. Many Central Asian rulers, including the Timurids, were followers.

The memorial complex grew around the tomb over the centuries and was extensively restored and enlarged in the 1990s and 2000s, after independence, when it again became a major pilgrimage destination. Its main parts are:

• The tomb of Bahauddin, in an open courtyard, marked by a large stone dakhma (platform tomb) surrounded by a low wall. Pilgrims walk around it and pray.
• The khanaka, a large domed building with a tall portal, built in the 16th century by the Shaybanid ruler Abdulaziz Khan as a lodge for Sufis. Its painted interior and stalactite vaulting are fine.
• Mosques with carved and painted wooden porches (aivan) supported on slender columns, in the Bukharan style, around the courtyard.
• A minaret, a pool and gardens, and a small museum on the history of the Naqshbandi order.

Near the tomb stands an old dried tree trunk, said to have grown from Bahauddin’s staff. Pilgrims pass beneath its branches, which is believed to bring forgiveness of sins and fulfilment of wishes.

For many Uzbeks and visitors from other Muslim countries, visiting Bahauddin is a central religious experience. A local saying holds that three pilgrimages to Bahauddin are equal to one pilgrimage to Mecca, though this is a popular belief rather than religious doctrine. Pilgrims often come in families, bring food to share, offer prayers, give donations and drink water from the spring. On Wednesdays, considered an auspicious day, and on religious holidays the complex is especially busy.

The shrine is the most important of the Seven Saints (Yetti Pir), seven Sufi masters of the Naqshbandi lineage buried around Bukhara. Visiting all seven tombs is a traditional pilgrimage, usually made over one or two days by car.

This is an active place of worship. Dress modestly: long trousers or skirts, covered shoulders, and a headscarf for women. Speak quietly. Do not walk in front of people who are praying. Ask before photographing pilgrims. Remove shoes where indicated. If an imam is reciting prayers for a group, you may sit at the edge and listen.

Location: in the village of Kasri Orifon, about 12 km north-east of the centre of Bukhara.

Getting there: about 20–25 minutes by taxi. It combines well with Sitorai Mohi-Hosa, the emir’s summer palace on the way, and with the Chor-Bakr necropolis west of the city, in a half-day or full-day trip by car.

Tickets: entry is free; donations are welcome. The museum may have a small fee.

Time needed: 1–1.5 hours.

Tips: a local guide helps to explain the customs and the history of the Naqshbandi order. Morning visits are calmer; Wednesdays and holidays are crowded but very atmospheric.