Nurullaboy Palace, Khiva

After the Russian conquest of 1873, the khanate of Khiva survived as a Russian protectorate. The khans kept their throne and court but lost their independence in foreign affairs. Muhammad Rahim Khan II (ruled 1864–1910), a poet and patron of the arts, and his son Isfandiyar Khan (1910–1918) opened Khiva to some Russian and European influences: the first telegraph, a hospital, a post office and the European-style school of the vizier Islam Khoja.

The palace takes its name from the garden of a rich man named Nurullaboy, where it was built. It was begun in the early 1900s for Muhammad Rahim Khan II and completed for Isfandiyar Khan. In 1920 the last khan was removed and the Khorezm People’s Soviet Republic was declared. In the Soviet period the palace was used as offices, a school and other institutions before being restored as a museum.

The palace consists of several buildings and courtyards, including reception halls, the khan’s private rooms and a harem. From the outside, it looks like a traditional Khivan building of brick with tall aivans on carved wooden columns. Inside, the reception rooms reveal a surprising mixture.

The ceilings are carved and painted by Khivan masters in the traditional way, and some walls are decorated with ganch (carved alabaster) and tiles. But the rooms also have European tiled stoves, crystal chandeliers, large mirrors, parquet-like floors and windows of a Russian design, reportedly brought from St Petersburg and other cities. Some objects are said to have been gifts from Tsar Nicholas II to the khan. The result is a fascinating record of a moment when a Central Asian monarchy adopted the fashions of the Russian Empire while keeping its own craft traditions.

The main reception hall, where the khan received Russian officials and foreign guests, is the most elaborate room, with painted ceilings, gilding and ornate stucco.

Some rooms hold small exhibitions on the history of the khanate in its last decades, with photographs of the khans, their court and Khiva at the beginning of the 20th century, including the first photographs and films taken in the city. Exhibits change, so check on arrival.

The gardens and courtyards are pleasant and much quieter than the busy lanes inside the walls. Look at the details as you walk through: the carved doors and columns were made by Khivan woodcarvers of the same school whose work fills Ichan-Kala, while the window frames, hardware and stoves come from a completely different world. Few buildings in Central Asia show the encounter between the khanates and the Russian Empire so clearly.

The palace stands in Dishan-Kala, the outer town, just outside the walls of Ichan-Kala and a short walk from the western gate. Ask for directions, as signage can be limited. It is easy to combine with a walk along the outside of the walls and a visit to the gates of Khiva.

Tickets: a separate entrance fee; it is generally not included in the Ichan-Kala combined ticket. Check locally.

Time needed: about 45 minutes.

Who it suits: travellers who have seen the main sights inside the walls and want to understand the last chapter of the khanate, and anyone interested in the meeting of Central Asian and Russian cultures. It makes a good contrast with the 19th-century Tash-Hauli palace and the older Kunya Ark.

Tips: visit in the afternoon, when the crowds inside the walls are at their peak, for a quieter experience. See our Khiva itinerary.