Shopping in Samarkand: crafts, textiles, paper and sweets

Suzani are large embroidered textiles, traditionally made by women for a bride’s dowry and hung on walls or used as bedspreads. Samarkand and nearby Urgut are among the main centres, with bold red, purple and dark designs of flowers, suns and pomegranates. Prices depend on size, whether the embroidery is by hand or machine, natural or chemical dyes, and age. Look at the back: hand embroidery is slightly irregular. The largest choice is at the Urgut Sunday market and in the shops of the Registan.

Silk carpets are woven in Samarkand workshops, often to traditional Bukhara, Persian and Turkmen designs, using silk on silk or silk on cotton. A good workshop lets you watch the weavers, explains knot density and issues the documents needed for export. Carpets are a major purchase; take your time and compare.

Ikat silk (atlas and adras) comes mainly from Margilan in the Fergana Valley, but scarves, fabric by the metre and clothing are sold in Samarkand too.

Samarkand paper. Hand-made from mulberry bark at the Konigil workshop, sold as sheets, notebooks and cards. Light and easy to carry.

Miniatures. Painters in the madrasah cells of the Registan produce miniatures in the Persian and Timurid tradition, often on Samarkand paper or lacquered boxes. Quality varies greatly; watch the artists at work and choose pieces with fine detail.

Ceramics. Plates, bowls and lagan (serving dishes) from Rishtan (blue and turquoise) and Gijduvan (brown, yellow, green) are sold throughout the city. Ask shops to wrap them well for travel.

Woodwork and metal. Carved wooden boxes, Quran stands (lauh) and chess sets; engraved copper and brass trays and jugs; and knives from Chust in the Fergana Valley.

Musical instruments. Some workshops in the Registan make and sell long-necked lutes such as the dutar and tanbur; craftsmen are often happy to play.

Siab Bazaar is the place for edible souvenirs: halva, navat (crystallised sugar), sugared almonds, dried apricots, raisins, apricot kernels, pistachios and walnuts, and spice mixes for plov. Many stalls vacuum-pack purchases for travel. A Samarkand round loaf travels well for a few days and makes a charming gift. Wine and brandy can be bought at the Khovrenko winery; check your home country’s allowances.

• Registan madrasahs: dozens of shops and workshops in the former student cells. Convenient, with a wide choice, but prices start high.
• Tashkent Street: the pedestrian street between the Registan and Bibi-Khanym is lined with souvenir shops and galleries.
• Siab Bazaar: food, spices, everyday goods and some souvenirs at local prices.
• Urgut market: the best place for suzani, especially on Sunday.
• Konigil: paper and paper products direct from the makers.
• Eternal City: craft workshops in a modern setting, open in the evening.

In markets and many craft shops bargaining is expected. Ask the price, offer a lower amount and settle somewhere in between, with a smile; walking away politely is acceptable. In fixed-price shops and workshops with marked prices, bargaining is not usual. Cash in Uzbek soum is easiest; larger shops accept cards, and some quote prices in US dollars for expensive items such as carpets. Get a receipt for significant purchases.

Uzbekistan restricts the export of antiques and cultural property. Items more than a certain age, or that look old, such as old suzani, carpets, jewellery, coins and manuscripts, may require an export certificate from the authorities. Reputable shops can arrange the paperwork or provide documents showing an item is new. Keep receipts. Without documents, customs officers may confiscate items when you leave. See our Uzbekistan customs rules and visa and entry guide.

Pack ceramics in your hand luggage or wrap them in clothes in the middle of your suitcase. Large carpets can often be shipped by the seller.

Buying directly from makers, in workshops at Konigil, in the Registan or at Urgut, means more of your money reaches the craftspeople. Ask who made a piece and where; many artisans are proud to show their work and explain its meaning. Avoid items made from protected animals or plants, and be wary of anything sold as an antique without documents. Small purchases from family workshops support crafts that nearly disappeared in the 20th century and were revived only in recent decades.