Sudochie Lake

Before the Aral Sea shrank, the delta of the Amu Darya was a vast area of channels, lakes and reed beds, rich in fish and birds. Most of it has dried out, but some lakes survive, fed by water from the river and drainage canals. Sudochie is one of the largest: a group of shallow lakes surrounded by reeds, salt flats and desert, at the foot of the Ustyurt Plateau.

The contrast is striking: blue water and green reeds below white cliffs and brown desert. It is one of the few places in Karakalpakstan that still give an idea of what the delta looked like before the disaster.

The lakes are an important stop for migratory birds on the flyway between Siberia and southern Asia, and are recognised as an important bird area. In spring and autumn, thousands of waterbirds rest and feed here. Species seen include pelicans, flamingos in some years, herons, egrets, cormorants, many kinds of ducks and geese, and waders on the mudflats. Raptors such as marsh harriers hunt over the reeds.

The best seasons for birdwatching are April–May and September–October. Bring binoculars; a telephoto lens is useful for photographs. Water levels vary from year to year, and with them the number of birds.

On the shore of the lake, the ruins of a former fishing settlement, often called Urga after the area, recall the days when fishing was the main activity of the delta. Collapsed houses, a small mosque or cemetery, and the skeletons of boats stand in the sand. Like the ships of Muynak, they are a reminder of the communities that lived from the water and were forced to leave as it disappeared.

Some fishermen still work on the lakes, and you may see small boats and nets. Ask before photographing people.

Sudochie depends on how much water reaches the delta, which in turn depends on snowfall in the mountains and on how much the Amu Darya is used for irrigation upstream. In dry years the lakes shrink and become saltier; in wet years they spread and the reeds grow back. Projects to restore wetlands in the southern Aral region aim to keep lakes like Sudochie alive, as they help fishing, grazing and wildlife, and reduce the dust blowing from the dry seabed. The lake is therefore a good place to understand that the story of the Aral Sea is still being written.

Above the lake, the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau rises in steep cliffs. Tracks lead up to viewpoints from which you can see the whole lake system, the delta and the desert stretching to the horizon. Many travellers stop here for photographs or a picnic on the way west to the Aral Sea shore. Sunset over the water from the cliffs is particularly beautiful.

Location: in the old Amu Darya delta, south-west of Muynak, in western Karakalpakstan.

Access: only by 4x4 with an experienced driver, on dirt tracks; there is no public transport, and mobile signal is weak or absent.

Time needed: 1–2 hours, usually as a stop on the way to or from the Aral Sea.

Tips: bring insect repellent in late spring and summer, when mosquitoes can be numerous near the water. Carry water, food and sun protection; there are no facilities. Respect the wildlife: keep a distance from nesting birds and do not fly drones over colonies.

Sudochie is included on most trips from Nukus and Muynak to the Aral Sea, such as our Aral Sea and Karakalpakstan tour. See also things to do in Nukus.