Mizdakhan necropolis

West of Nukus, close to the town of Khodjeyli and the border with Turkmenistan, a low hill rises above the flat plain of the Amu Darya delta. This is Mizdakhan, one of the largest and oldest cemeteries in Central Asia. Archaeologists date the first settlement and burials here to around the 4th century BC, in the time of ancient Khorezm, and the hill has been used as a burial ground ever since. Old ruined tombs, medieval mausoleums and modern graves stand side by side.

For local people Mizdakhan is a place of pilgrimage. Families come to pray, to visit the tombs of saints and to honour their ancestors. Visitors are welcome, but should dress modestly and behave quietly.

In the Middle Ages a town called Mizdakhan stood here, on a trade route between Khorezm and the lower Volga. It was the second city of the region after Gurganj (Kunya-Urgench, today in Turkmenistan). Like much of Khorezm it suffered from the Mongol invasion in the 13th century and was finally ruined at the end of the 14th century, during the wars of Timur. Only the necropolis remained in use.

The most beautiful monument of Mizdakhan is the Mazlum Khan Sulu mausoleum, dated to the 12th–14th centuries. It is partly sunk into the hill: you go down a few steps into a domed chamber decorated with carved and glazed tilework. A legend tells of a princess, Mazlum Khan, and the architect who loved her; separated in life, they were buried together here. The mausoleum is one of the finest examples of pre-Timurid architecture in Karakalpakstan.

On the crest of the hill stands the long, low mausoleum of Shamun Nabi, which local tradition links to a prophet of that name; its unusually long tomb gave rise to stories of a giant. Restored in the 19th century, it is an important place of prayer.

Nearby is the ruin known as the tomb of Khalfa Erezhep, linked to the most famous legend of Mizdakhan. It says that a brick falls from the building every year, and when the last brick falls, the world will end. To delay the end of the world, pilgrims build small piles of bricks and stones around the hill. You will see these piles everywhere: they are part of a living tradition, so do not move or take them.

Across the road from the necropolis rise the walls of Gyaur Kala, a fortress of ancient Khorezm, dated by archaeologists to around the 4th century BC and used until the early Middle Ages. Its mud-brick walls and towers stand on the edge of a ridge above the plain. A short walk up gives a good view over Mizdakhan, the canals and fields of the delta, and on clear days, towards Turkmenistan.

Location: about 20 km west of Nukus, near Khodjeyli; 25–30 minutes by car.

Tickets: there may be a small entrance fee for the main mausoleums.

Time needed: 1–1.5 hours for the necropolis and Gyaur Kala.

Tips: go in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the heat is less fierce. Wear good shoes, as the paths are uneven. There is little shade and no café, so bring water. Women may want a scarf for the mausoleums.

Combine with the Savitsky Museum on the same day, or with the Chilpik tower of silence on the road between Nukus and Khiva. A guide helps you understand the legends and find the less obvious tombs. See things to do in Nukus.