Tomb of the Prophet Daniel (Khoja Doniyor)

The prophet Daniel of the Hebrew Bible is traditionally associated with Babylon and with Susa in Persia, where another tomb of Daniel is revered. Samarkand has its own tradition. One version says that Timur, on his campaigns in the Middle East, could not take a certain city because the relics of Daniel protected it. On the advice of his scholars he took part of the relics to Samarkand so that their blessing would protect his capital. Another tradition links the shrine to the early Arab period.

Whatever its origins, the shrine has been venerated for centuries. Muslims call Daniel Khoja Doniyor and count him among the prophets; Jews and Christians know him from the Book of Daniel. Members of all three faiths visit, which gives the place a rare atmosphere of shared devotion.

The most striking feature of the shrine is the sarcophagus, around 18 metres long, under a low building with five domes. Legend says that the body of the prophet keeps growing, and that the tomb has had to be extended over the centuries; another explanation is that the length was meant to prevent anyone from finding and stealing the exact position of the relics. Pilgrims walk around the tomb, touch it and pray.

The present mausoleum was built at the beginning of the 20th century on the site of older structures and has been restored several times. Its plain interior, with the long tomb covered by green cloth, contrasts with the tiled monuments of the city centre.

Below the shrine, steps lead down to a spring at the edge of the Siab stream. Its water is believed to have healing properties, and many visitors drink it or fill bottles. Near the mausoleum stands an old pistachio tree. A popular story says that the tree, long dead, came back to life after a prayer by a visiting patriarch of the Russian Orthodox Church in the 1990s; guides like to point it out.

The shrine is set on a terrace above the little valley of the Siab, with the slopes of Afrasiyab rising behind it. It is a peaceful place compared with the busy monuments in the centre, with trees, benches and the sound of water. From the terrace you can see across the valley towards the city. Many local families visit on Fridays and holidays, sometimes with offerings, and you may see small ceremonies of prayer and blessing.

The shrine is on the north-eastern side of Afrasiyab, near the Tashkent road, about 10 minutes by taxi from the Registan. It is close to the Afrasiyab museum and the Ulugbek observatory, so the three combine well in a half-day. There may be a small entrance fee. Dress modestly: women should cover their hair and shoulders, and everyone should cover their knees. Remove shoes where asked, speak quietly and do not photograph people at prayer.

Samarkand has long been a city of many communities: Muslims, a historic Bukharan Jewish population, and Christians who arrived with the Russian Empire. The shrine of Daniel is one of the few places where all of them came to pray. Visiting it, you see a side of Uzbekistan’s religious life that is less about grand architecture and more about personal faith, legend and the hope for a blessing.