Zurmala Stupa, Termez

A stupa is a Buddhist monument, originally a burial mound, that became a symbol of the Buddha and his teaching. Stupas usually contain relics, such as remains or objects associated with the Buddha or revered monks, and are solid structures rather than buildings to enter. Pilgrims walk around them clockwise in prayer. In the Kushan period, stupas were built across Central Asia, Afghanistan and northern India, often as the centre of a monastery.

The Zurmala stupa was built of mud brick in the 1st–2nd centuries AD, when Termez was a great Buddhist centre of the Kushan empire. Originally, it stood on a square platform and was faced with stone slabs and decorated with sculpture and plaster, possibly painted and gilded. It may have been part of a larger monastery, now lost.

Over nearly two thousand years, the facing was removed and the weather eroded the tower, leaving a tall, rough cylinder of brick about 13 metres high (originally it was taller). Archaeologists who studied it in the 20th century found fragments of the stone facing and decoration. Its exact original appearance is uncertain, but it is believed to have been one of the largest stupas in the region.

The stupa stands in open countryside on the outskirts of Termez, among fields and, in some periods, close to a military area. It is a strange and impressive sight: an ancient, eroded tower rising alone above the flat landscape, with the mountains of Afghanistan sometimes visible on the horizon. There is little on site beyond the stupa itself and some information panels; its power lies in its age and setting.

Access can depend on local conditions. Ask your guide or at the Termez Archaeological Museum about current access before you go.

Location: on the outskirts of Termez, a short drive from the centre.

Getting there: by taxi or with a driver; the last stretch may be on a dirt track.

Tickets: usually free.

Time needed: 20–30 minutes.

Tips: go in the early morning or late afternoon for softer light and cooler temperatures; there is no shade. Do not climb on the stupa: it is fragile. Bring water and sun protection.

From Termez and other Buddhist centres of Bactria, monks, merchants and translators travelled north and east along the trade routes of the Silk Road, through Sogdiana and the oases of the Tarim basin to China. Some of the first translators of Buddhist scriptures into Chinese came from Central Asia. Chinese pilgrims, in turn, crossed the region on their way to India: the famous monk Xuanzang passed through Termez in the 7th century and described its monasteries and monks. Stupas like Zurmala were landmarks on this long road of ideas.

The Zurmala stupa is one of a group of Buddhist sites around Termez that make the city unique in Uzbekistan. Combine it with the monastery of Fayaz Tepa, where a preserved stupa stands under a protective dome, and the cave monastery of Kara Tepa by the Amu Darya. The museum displays sculptures and wall paintings from these sites. Together they tell the story of the centuries when Buddhism flourished in Central Asia and spread from here towards China.

For travellers interested in the Silk Road and the history of religions, Termez is an essential stop. See things to do in Termez.