Where to watch the sunset in Khiva: the best spots from a local team

Our team is based in Khiva, and sunset is the moment we recommend to every visitor. In the evening, the mud-brick walls of Ichan-Kala turn from beige to gold, orange and pink; the turquoise tiles of the minarets glow; and the silhouettes of domes and towers stand out against the sky. As the day visitors leave, the old town becomes quiet, and you hear only the call to prayer, children playing and swallows over the roofs. It is the best moment of the day in Khiva.

The walls of Ichan-Kala, up to 10 metres high and more than 2 km long, are the classic sunset spot. The most popular access is near the northern gate (Bakhcha Darvaza), where steps lead up onto a section of the wall. From here you look south over the whole old town: the Kalta Minor, the Islam Khodja minaret, the domes of madrasahs and the flat roofs of houses, with the sun setting to the west over the desert.

Arrive early in high season, as the section can be busy. Walk carefully: the surface is uneven and there are no railings in places. A small fee may be charged.

Inside the Kunya-Ark, the old fortress-residence of the khans near the western gate, the Ak Sheikh Bobo watchtower offers one of the best views of Khiva, especially towards the east, where the minarets catch the evening light. Access depends on the Kunya-Ark’s opening hours, which usually end around sunset, so check times and go in the late afternoon. It is also beautiful in the morning.

Several cafés, restaurants and hotels in and around Ichan-Kala have rooftop terraces with views of the Kalta Minor and the Islam Khodja minaret. Watching the sunset with a cup of green tea or dinner is one of the pleasures of Khiva. Some terraces are open to non-guests if you order something; ask in advance in high season. In summer, the terraces are the coolest place to be in the evening.

The Islam Khodja minaret, the tallest in Khiva at about 57 metres, has a steep, narrow staircase leading to a small viewing platform with a 360-degree view over the old town, the new town and the desert. It usually closes before sunset, so climb it in the late afternoon for golden light. It is not suitable for people with a fear of heights or limited mobility.

• The western gate (Ota Darvoza), with the statue of al-Khwarizmi: the walls glow behind it at sunset.
• Dishan-Kala, the outer town: quiet streets and views of the inner walls from outside. See Dishan-Kala.
• The fields on the edge of the town, with the walls on the horizon.

For a completely different experience, drive about 1.5–2 hours north to the desert fortresses. At Ayaz Kala, climb to the hilltop fortress for sunset over the Kyzylkum desert and Lake Akchakul, then stay overnight in the yurt camp below and watch the stars. We often recommend this to visitors with an extra day in Khiva. See our desert fortresses day tour.

Approximate sunset times (local time):

Times vary through the month; check a weather app. Arrive 30–45 minutes before sunset for the best light, and stay 15–20 minutes after for the blue hour, when the monuments are lit.

• Use a telephoto lens from the walls to compress the minarets and domes.
• Shoot the Kalta Minor with the warm light on its tiles; it faces south-east, so late afternoon side light works well.
• In summer, there may be haze; spring and autumn give the clearest air.
• In winter, sunset is early and cold; bring warm clothes.
• Respect residents: Ichan-Kala is a living neighbourhood; do not climb on private roofs.

See our best photography spots in Uzbekistan.

After dark, walk through the lit lanes of Ichan-Kala, have dinner in a courtyard restaurant, and in high season watch a folklore show with the energetic Lazgi dance. The old town is safe and peaceful at night. See our Khiva itinerary, Khiva weather and where to stay in Khiva.

In spring, the air is clear and the sunset light is soft, with green fields around the walls. In summer, sunsets are late and warm, and the terraces are the place to be as the heat fades. In autumn, the light is golden and the sky often clear; this is the favourite season for many photographers. In winter, sunsets are early and cold, but the low light on the walls is beautiful, and you may have the walls almost to yourself. On rare snowy days, Khiva at sunset is unforgettable.

Climb the Islam Khodja minaret in the late afternoon, then walk to the northern gate and up onto the walls for sunset. As the light fades, walk back through the lanes as the lamps come on, and have dinner on a terrace with a view of the Kalta Minor. Finish with tea in a courtyard or a folklore show. It is the simplest and best plan for an evening in Khiva.

Do not overlook sunrise. Early in the morning, before the souvenir stalls open, Ichan-Kala is silent and the low light paints the minarets pink and gold. The walls near the northern gate and the lanes around the Islam Khodja minaret are wonderful at dawn, and you will meet only residents sweeping their doorsteps and children going to school. In summer, dawn is also the coolest time of day for a walk.