Khiva to Nukus: car or train

Khiva lies in the oasis of Khorezm on the left bank of the Amu Darya; Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, lies to the north, near the river’s delta. Between them, on the right bank, are the ruins of dozens of ancient fortresses at the edge of the Kyzylkum desert. The journey is short, but what you see on the way makes it one of the most interesting drives in the west of Uzbekistan.

The direct road runs north from Khiva via Urgench, crosses the Amu Darya and continues through Beruni and the irrigated fields to Nukus. The distance is about 180–200 km and the drive takes about 3 hours without stops.

A private car with driver lets you leave when you want and stop at the sights on the way. Our team is based in Khiva and arranges cars and drivers for this route; see our transfer service.

With a short detour from the main road, you can visit:

• Kyzyl Kala: a compact, partly restored square fort.
• Toprak Kala: the royal palace-city of ancient Khorezm.
• Ayaz Kala: a hilltop fortress with desert views and a yurt camp for lunch.
• Big Guldursun: a huge, less-visited fortress, for those with extra time.
• Chilpik: a Zoroastrian tower of silence on a hill above the river, beside the road about 40 km before Nukus.

With these stops, the journey becomes a full day. See the desert fortresses and our desert fortresses day tour.

Trains link Urgench (and sometimes Khiva) with Nukus. They are cheap but less frequent and slower than the road, and timetables change; check current services. Tickets require your passport. Our train ticket service can help.

Shared taxis to Nukus leave from Urgench when full. They are cheaper than a private car, but do not stop at the fortresses.

If you do not want to change hotels, you can visit Nukus as a long day trip from Khiva: leave early, visit the Savitsky Museum and the Mizdakhan necropolis, and return in the evening, perhaps stopping at Chilpik or one of the fortresses. It is a long day of about 6 hours of driving, but rewarding if you love art and archaeology.

If you plan to continue to the Aral Sea, it is better to spend a night in Nukus, then drive to Muynak: see Nukus to Muynak.

• Want to see the fortresses: a private car with driver, as a full day.
• Only want the Savitsky Museum: a car for a day trip, or a train or shared taxi from Urgench.
• Continuing to the Aral Sea: a car to Nukus, a night there, then on to Muynak.
• Budget travellers: a shared taxi from Urgench, accepting that there will be no stops.

From Nukus, you can fly back to Tashkent (about 2 hours, several times a week) or take a long-distance train. Alternatively, return to Khiva and fly from Urgench, which has more frequent flights. See Tashkent to Nukus, how to get to Nukus and Tashkent to Urgench.

• The best seasons are April–May and September–October. In summer, visit the fortresses early in the morning.
• Bring water, a hat and sunscreen: the fortresses have no shade.
• Carry your passport for police checkpoints.
• The Savitsky Museum is usually closed one day a week; check before planning a day trip.
• For the weather in Nukus, see Nukus weather.