A crafts route through Uzbekistan

For centuries, the cities of the Silk Road were famous not only for their monuments but for their craftsmen. Silk from Margilan, ceramics from Rishtan, carpets from Khiva and Bukhara, paper from Samarkand: these crafts survived the Soviet period, often in family workshops, and are now being revived by a new generation of masters.

Visiting the workshops is one of the most rewarding ways to travel in Uzbekistan. You can watch artisans at work, learn about techniques passed down for generations, and buy directly from the people who make the objects.

Start at the State Museum of Applied Arts, in a 19th-century house decorated by master craftsmen, for an overview of Uzbek crafts: embroidery, ceramics, carving, jewellery and textiles from every region. Then explore the Chorsu bazaar, where you will find skullcaps, knives, ceramics and textiles. See shopping in Tashkent.

Travel by train or car to the Fergana Valley. See Tashkent to Fergana.

• Margilan: the Yodgorlik silk factory shows every step of making ikat silk (atlas and adras), from silkworm cocoons to dyeing and hand weaving. On market days, the Kumtepa bazaar is full of fabrics.
• Rishtan: home of Uzbekistan’s most famous ceramics, with their deep blue and turquoise ishkor glaze. Visit the ceramic workshops of master potters.
• Kokand: known for wood carving and the painted ceilings of its palace and mosques.

See our Fergana Valley itinerary.

In Samarkand, visit the Konigil paper mill, where silk paper is made from mulberry bark using water-powered mills, reviving a craft for which medieval Samarkand was famous. Visit a silk carpet workshop, where weavers knot carpets by hand. On a Sunday, take a trip to the Urgut bazaar in the foothills, known for old and new suzani. Of course, also see the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda, whose tilework is itself a masterpiece of craft. See shopping in Samarkand.

On the way from Samarkand to Bukhara by car, stop at Gijduvan, famous for its ceramics in warm yellow, brown and green tones, very different from Rishtan’s blues. A family of potters has worked here for generations and runs a workshop and museum where you can watch the process and have lunch. See Samarkand to Bukhara.

Bukhara is a paradise for craft lovers. In the trading domes and madrasah courtyards, artisans work in their shops:

• Suzani: large embroidered textiles with floral motifs.
• Gold embroidery (zardozi), once made for the emir’s court.
• Metalwork: blacksmiths making knives and the famous stork-shaped scissors.
• Miniature painting, revived in the style of the old manuscripts.
• Carpets, puppets and ceramics.

See shopping in Bukhara.

Cross the desert to Khiva (see Bukhara to Khiva). Khiva is famous for its wood carving: the columns of the Juma mosque and the doors of the old city are masterpieces. Visit wood-carving workshops where young artisans learn from masters, and carpet workshops where hand-knotted carpets are made in natural dyes, inspired by the tiles and doors of Khiva. Suzani and silk embroidery workshops complete the picture. See shopping in Khiva. Fly back to Tashkent from Urgench.

Craft workshops work all year, but some events are worth planning around. Uzbekistan hosts craft festivals and fairs, such as the international handicrafts festival held in Kokand, and the Silk and Spices festival in Bukhara, usually in late spring, with artisans, music and dance in the old town. Dates change from year to year, so check before you travel.

Seasons matter too. In spring, silkworms are raised in the Fergana Valley, and you can see the first stages of silk production. In autumn, the harvest of cotton, pomegranates and grapes brings colour to the bazaars. In winter, workshops are quieter, and masters have more time to talk.

Finally, take time to watch rather than just buy: the patterns of a Rishtan bowl, a Khiva door or a Margilan ikat often carry centuries-old symbols, and the artisans are proud to explain them.

• Ask before photographing artisans at work.
• Many workshops welcome visitors without obligation to buy, but a small purchase or a tip is appreciated.
• Respect working hours; some workshops close on Fridays or during family celebrations.
• A guide can introduce you to masters and translate, making the visits much more personal.

• Bargaining is normal in bazaars and many shops, less so in workshops with fixed prices.
• Quality varies: compare hand-made pieces with factory imitations, especially for suzani and ceramics.
• Export: keep receipts for carpets and valuable items; antiques need an export certificate. See Uzbekistan customs rules.
• Transport: wrap ceramics well and carry them in hand luggage; large carpets can often be shipped.

We can arrange visits to workshops, guides and transport along the whole crafts route. See also our 14-day itinerary.